It had been awhile, I guesstimate over half a year since we've hiked here. The last time we came there were workers on the trail working on restoration. I could not believe that it was some guy's job to haul wheel barrow after wheel barrow of stones/gravel up and down the trail. As I watched him I was amazed at the strength that it must take to do such hard labor.
During the hike we were able to see the fruits of their labor!!! From the very beginning we noticed a lot of changes were made to the trail. Many large trees were cut down at the start of the trail and a lot of vegetation was trimmed back. The trail was also heavily graveled. And by that I mean that the once stone, mud and uneven trail was now flat, wide, and filled with gravel. While it made the hiking very easy it took away the outdoor, rugged, natural feel of going on an adventure into the mountain rainforest. As we walked I was very shocked at how much the trail had changed. Where we once had to climb and go slow we were able to walk with ease. There was no more slipping and falling on our butts into mud. No more twisted ankles or skinned knees. It really had become a "walk in the park." And as we travelled, I realized that this once obscure trail had become commercialized as we saw many a large group with definite tour guides, complete with walking sticks on the trail. And it made me realize that this hike had become much like the Diamond Head Trail, a tourist attraction and it made me sad. Sure, the mother in me was happy that my little kids were safer on the trail, but it was a red flag for me of paradise lost.
When we got to the bamboo forest portion of the hike I was alarmed to see that they had ripped out the wooden trail and hadn't gotten to putting anything in it's place. All there was was a lot of thick, sticky, wet mud where the raised path once was. I was surprised that they'd take it out since I remembered it being in great shape. I wonder whether they will simply fill the path with more rocks/gravel or build another wooden platform. Whatever the case I hope it's done before we return again.
From there on the hike became a muddy mess until we reached the clearing where there was less forest and more sun. Within a few minutes we had made it to the waterfall and the mass of tour folk that were enjoying the view. As we rested at the falls and ate our snacks my children were highly concerned about the amount of people breaking the law and going beyond the cables and signs that said,"Danger Keep Out." They could not comprehend why anyone would enter the water or climb over the ropes. After a short rest we headed back to our car.
The hike back went by quickly and we were lucky because it was a very hot and humid day. About half way back D decided she had to use the bathroom and she and I took off running. I was amazed at her agility, speed, and grace. She was like a gazelle flying down the trail passing so many people and I had a hard time keeping up! I was a proud mama as I watched her run. And yes, I was very thankful for the improvements made to the trail.
When we finally got to the bathroom I asked her if she wanted to be a trail runner some day and she said yes. :) I was sure that some day in the near future we would be running the Manoa trail together.
All in all it was a great hike. Here are some tips to make sure you have a good one!
- It's very hot and humid, bring lots of water.
- The trail is muddy, wear trail shoes if you have them and it may be a good idea to pack rain gear.
- There are many beautiful birds in the area, bring a camera and be quiet.
- Lots of mosquitoes! Bring mosquito repellent!!!
- There is a $5 fee to park at the lot, but if you are Kama'aina show your ID and you only have to pay $3.
- There is a hose near the parking lot to hose yourself down with so bring a towel and plastic bags for your wet/muddy gear.
- There's a bathroom at the trail head.
- Don't drink or play in the stream water. Leptospirosis!!!
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